Tucked away on the southeast coast of France, roughly midway between
Marseille and Saint-Tropez, Toulon may lack the evident tourist appeal
of other major resorts on the Riviera, but its snug old town, pretty
beaches, wealth of museums and stunning Provençal scenery make
it an attractive and distinctive holiday destination. The capital
city of the department of Var in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur
region, Toulon thrives as both a tourist centre and the location of one
of France's largest naval bases. The unique topography in which
Toulon is situated makes it a natural military seaport, protected on
three sides by steeply sloping mountains and with the entrance to its
harbour guarded by the Saint-Mandrier peninsula. It not hard to
see why the city has played an important role in France's naval battles
of the past and why it is still of great strategic importance.
Ship building, armaments manufacture, fishing and viticulture are
Toulon's other main industries. It is also France's busiest ferry
port for the island of Corsica.
Toulon was founded by the Romans in around 2 BC, one of several
colonies they established on the southeast coast of France.
Previously, the area had been inhabited by the Ligurian settlers since
the 4th century BC. Named
Telo
Martius (which later became Toulon), it was an important harbour
town for trading vessels, and was also one of the two main Roman
centres of dye production. As Rome fell in the 5th century,
Toulon frequently succumbed to invading barbarians. After
Provence had been incorporated into the kingdom of France in 1486,
Toulon became a major centre of shipbuilding and an important military
port. The city was fortified in the mid-17th century on the
orders of King Louis XIV, as part of his grand design to make France a
formidable sea power. During the French Revolution, the city
remained loyal to the monarchy and fought a standoff with the support
of the British navy. It was by bringing the city to heel and
expelling the British, at the Siege of Toulon, that a young commander
named Napoleon Bonaparte, made a name for himself. In the
late 18th and early 19th century, Toulon served as a base for France's
conquest of its North African colonies (including Napoleon's Egyptian
expedition). In the mid-1800s, Baron Georges-Eugène
Haussmann was appointed Prefect of the Var and embarked on a major
reconstruction of Toulon, replacing the old fortifications with
imposing squares and wide boulevards, as he would do in Paris a few
years later. Toulon was severely bombed by the Allies during WWII
and much of the city was destroyed. After the war, Toulon was
extensively rebuilt and was soon established as France's main naval
port on the Mediterranean.
Although little remains of the historic old town, Toulon still has a
few quaint old streets which offer a pleasant retreat from the crowded
beaches, noisy bars and austere post-17th century architecture that was
inflicted on the city by Haussmann and his successors. The
Vieille Ville (Old Town) is the historic centre of Toulon, a
pedestrianised area that lies between the Bouevard de Strasbourg and
the Cours Lafayette. The main area of interest is the part of the
Vieille Ville behind Quai Stalingrad and Quai de la Sinse, which
miraculously escaped the Allied bombings in WWII. At the heart of
the old town is the Place Puget, with its ornately sculptured fountain
from 1780. Nearby is Toulon Cathedral (
Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-la-Seds),
built between the 11th and 18th centuries in a harmonious mix of
Romanesque and Classical styles. Its main features are its
elaborately decorated façade (damaged during the French
Revolution but later restored) and its 36 metre high clock tower.
The Cours Lafeyette is one of the main thoroughfares in the old town,
and the site of a busy street market that is held every morning except
Monday. Just south of the old town is the bustling promenade and
harbour, with a nearby abundance of shops, cafés and
restaurants. Situated between the harbour and the Cours Lafeyette
is Place Louis Blanc, which is dominated by
l'Église Saint François de
Paule, a Baroque 18th century church. The
Tour Royale is a fortress built
early in the 16th century to defend the harbour and was later used as a
prison. Another of Toulon's landmarks is its
Tour de l'Horloge, a clock tower of
the 1770s built within the city's naval base, but visible from the
entrance. Its loud bell used to sound the start and end of the
working day. Rising up north of the old town is the
Haute Ville (Upper Town), the more
recent part of the historic centre, which is dominated by Baron
Haussmann's severely linear urban design. Prominent features of
this area are the Opéra de Toulon (the largest opera house in
Provence), the Grand Hôtel, the Palais de justice, the train
station and the main square, the
Place
de la Liberté.
Towering over Toulon is the 584 metre high Mont Faron, which offers the
best views of the city and its harbour. A cablecar is the
best way to reach its peak, which is the site of the
Mémorial du débarquement de
Provence, a memorial and small museum erected in honour of the
liberation of the city by the Allies in 1944. Several
pleasant beaches are to be found south of
Le Mourillon, the area to the east
of Toulon near the harbour entrance. Better beaches can be found
further along the coast - at Cap Brun and Anse Magaud to the east and
at St-Cyr-sur-Mer, 20 km to the west. The latter has a long sandy
beach that is ideal for families. Toulon has several attractive
parks and gardens which show a pleasing variety of landscaping and
planting schemes. The oldest of these is the
Jardin Alexandre I in the Haute
Ville. Others include: the
Jardin
d'acclimatation, noted for its large collection of exotic
plants, the
Jardin Porte d'Italie
and the more recent
Jardin de la
Tour Royale.
Toulon also has several interesting museums. Situated on the
Place Monsenergue, on the west side of the old port, is Toulon's main
tourist attraction, the
Musée
national de la marine (Museum of the French Navy). Housed
in one of the few structures in this area to survive the Allied bombing in WWII,
this traces Toulon's longstanding association with the sea through an
impressive collection of model ships, drawings and memorabilia.
The
Musée d'art de Toulon
is the city's main art gallery and offers an outstanding display of
paintings, sculptures, photographs and archaeological artefacts from
the 15th to the 20th centuries. The pride of this
collection is a set of landscape paintings by Provençal artists
of the 19th century. The
Musée
du vieux Toulon et de sa region recounts the history of Toulon and
its region through a remarkably diverse collection of paintings,
models, maps and artefacts. The
Musée
d'Histoire Naturelle is Toulon's natural history museum and has
a large collection of minerals and animals found in the region,
including dinosaur remains. The
Musée
des arts asiatiques exhibits a varied collection of paintings
and objets d'art from India, China, Japan and other areas of the Far
East.
Toulon is served by Toulon-Hyères Airport, which is 18 km east
of the city. This provides connections to a limited number of
European destinations (including Paris, Charleroi, London and
Rotterdam). There is a bus service from the airport to the city
centre. Alternatively, fly to Marseille or Nice and take the
train to Toulon. Toulon's train station (Gare de Toulon) connects
to several French cities, including Paris, Marseille and Nice, and
other towns in the region. From the port of Toulon there is a
frequent ferry service to Corsica.