Aix, also known as Aix-en-Provence, is a city in southern France,
situated 30 km north of Marseille. It is in the department of
Bouches-du-Rhône, in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region
of France. Whilst it is a relatively small city, Aix is a major
tourist destination and an important centre for education, with three
world-class universities. It is wealthy compared with nearby
Marseille, with property prices comparable with those of Paris.
The city's historic centre is so small that you can cross it in under
twenty minutes on foot, but there is so much to see that you need to
spend at least two full days in Aix to appreciate all that it has to
offer. After that, you need to allow another week to explore the
sumptuous countryside that surrounds the town, which is some of the
most breathtaking in France.
Aix was founded in 123 BC by the Roman consul Sextius Calvinus, after
whom the town was named Aquae Sextiae. For most of the next 500
years, Aix was an important Roman spa town, reputed for the healing
properties of its natural thermal water. From the 5th century,
the town was fought over by the Franks and Lombards, and occupied by
the Saracens in 731. During the Middle Ages, Aix was the capital
of Provence and in the 12th century, ruled by Aragon and Anjou, it was
a leading centre of education and art. In 1497, Aix and the rest
of Provence became part of France. The parliament of Provence was
established in Aix by Louis XII in 1501 but was subsequently abolished
in 1789 as part of the reforms of the French Revolution. Today,
Aix is considered the unofficial capital of Provence and is one of the
most popular tourist destinations in southern France.
Aix is famous for three things - its architecture, its fountains and
the fact that it was the home of the post-impressionist painter Paul
Cézanne. The Old Town (Vieille Ville) is typical of
Provençal towns, with quaint paved squares and narrow Medieval
streets lined with grand old houses that date back to the 17th
century. It is here that you will find one of Aix's main
attractions, Cathédrale Saint Sauveur (St Sauveur
Cathedral). This amazing edifice (which has three naves) took
1200 years to complete and is an extraordinary mishmash of
architectural styles, including Romanesque, Gothic and
Baroque. Next to this is the 17th century archbishop's
palace, which houses the Tapestry Musuem (Musée des
Tapisseries).
The Cours Mirabeau, the oldest and broadest street in Aix, neatly
bisects the town, the New Town lying to the south and west, the Old Town to
the north. Lined by plane trees and imposing mansions, this is
the grandest and busiest area of the city centre, a popular spot with
its restaurants and pavement cafés. It is here that
you will find the
Deux Garçons,
Aix's most famous brasserie, whose illustrious past patrons include
Cézanne, Zola and Hemingway. South of the Cours Mirabeau
is the Mazarin Quarter, an upmarket residential area built in the 17th
century primarily for members of the Provence parliament. Located
here is the Arbaud Museum, which exhibits locally made pottery.
At the heart of the Old Town, the picturesque Place de l'Hôtel de Ville is the site of two of
Aix's most impressive public buildings, the 17th century Hôtel de
Ville (town hall), adjacent to a grand clock-tower, and the ornately
decorated Halle de Grains (Corn Exchange).
Aix is especially famous for its plethora of decorative fountains, the
grandest of which is the 17th century Fontaine des Quatre Dauphins
(Fountain of the Four Dolphins) in the Quartier Mazarin. Of the
three fountains on the Cours Mirabeau, the most eye-catching is the one
situated on the Rotonde, beneath the three huge statues depicting Art,
Justice and Agriculture. Several impressive fountains can also be
found in the Old Town, most notably on the Place d'Albertas and the
Place des Trois-Ormeaux.
Aix's open-air markets (held on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays) are
another feature of the town, offering everything from fresh produce and
flowers to clothes, books and antiques. For those who prefer to
shop indoors, there is also a wide range of shops, including fashion
boutiques, bookshops and souvenir shops. Aix is not only a great
place to shop and go sightseeing, it is also a major cultural
hub. It is the home of two of France's most prestigious musical
events: the Festival d'Aix-en-Provence, an important opera festival held in
July that rivals those of Salzburg and Glyndebourne; and Musique dans
la Rue, which coincides with the national Fête de la Musique in
June.
One of the attractions of Aix is its wide range of museums. The
foremost of these is the Musée Granet, which offers a large
collection of paintings and sculptures (including work by Ingrès,
Van Dyck and Cézanne), as well as an archaeological exhibition
that displays Roman artefacts. Other important museums include:
the Musée du Vieil Aix (Museum of Old Aix), documenting the
history of Aix; the Muséum d'Histoire Naturelle (Natural History
Museum); the Musée de Tapisseries (Tapestry Museum); and
L'Atelier Cézanne, a museum in the north of Aix that provides a
reconstruction of the studio of the painter Paul Cézanne.
The countryside around Aix is well worth exploring. The view to
the east is dominated by the towering Mont Sainte-Victoire, which can
be ascended on foot via a network of paths which lead to a priory and
the
Croix de Provence on its
summit. To the north, the mountain descends through an attractive
area of woodland to the picturesque village of Vauvenargues. To
the south of Aix lies the town of Les Milles, which is the site of a
monument (Mémorial des Milles) built on a Nazi concentration
camp.
The nearest commercial airport to Aix is at Marseille, although it may
be cheaper to fly with a low cost carrier to Nice. There is a
high speed rail service (TGV) from Paris to Aix, the journey time being
just three hours. A standard train service connects Aix to nearby
French cities, including Marseille and Nice. Aix is also
well-served by its buses, which provide easy access to the towns and
villages in its vicinity. Parking in Aix can be a nightmare,
especially in the peak summer months, so it is not advisable to drive
into the centre of town. The best time to visit Aix is in the
late spring, early autumn, when the climate is milder and the town
centre less crowded.